Massey Uni shows Future of Fashion

FUTURE OF FASHION – FOYA COLLECTIVE 08Massey University Fashion Graduates Show
Innovative designs of New Zealand’s future designers embraced the catwalk recently when the Massey University Fashion Graduates Show was unleashed last week. The Future of Fashion – FOYA Collective 08 was held at Wellington's Massey campus in the expansive Great Hall.Massey named the show FOYA in reference to a recently discovered rainforest in Indonesia reflecting the rich, undiscovered originality of such an untouched place and the tight knit community of the people who live there. Graduates presented their designs to a packed-out audience which included well-known and talented designers Alexander Owen, Liz Mitchell, Robyn Matheson and Emma Wallace. Looking for a new pattern-maker perhaps?The themes that were evident on the runway included dark raw use of fabrics and styles. Fabrics that were evident were the use of silks in ethereal floaty dresses, satin in tights and jackets for men and woman and the use of screen printing and tie dye. Some designers used an eclectic mix of fabrics in their collections with a range from floaty and velvet maxi dresses to edgy punk jeans and tie dyed vests and tops. Interesting shoulder features featured on a range of garments including dresses and jackets – bringing the 80s into a more upmarket and attractive light. Pleats, drapery, tucks, domes and zips were meshed into many of the creations, all very versatile and wearable.Frances Hodgson’s edgy textile designer collection (pictured above) caught our eye on the catwalk. Hodgson completed the Bachelor of Design (Textile Major). Thread spoke to Hodgson on her collection coined “I'd Wear It To The Bone” which won her an embroidery award.IS THIS YOUR FIRST COLLECTION? This is my first fashion collection. I have designed many textile collections throughout my study and have had a consistent style with the aesthetic of my drawings translating onto fabric. The inspiration for these collections has been taken from a wide range of things but is mainly drawn from the natural world. WHAT DO YOU SEE AS YOUR INSPIRATION IN YOUR FASHION DESIGN? I'd Wear It To The Bone was inspired by analogies between the natural world and the human anatomy. I was inspired by old medical illustrations from the renaissance and prior, and particularly the limited knowledge the academics had on the human anatomy and the way it works. People formed connections between the body and the way the natural world works as it helped them create meaning from the world. WHAT IS NEXT ON THE AGENDA FOR YOU? I am pursuing a career within the New Zealand Fashion industry. Ideally I'd like to collaborate with a fashion designer to create a collection using my textile designs. WHO DO YOU LIKE IN TERMS OF NZ AND INTERNATIONAL DESIGNERS and WHY? Adrian Hailwood would be a favourite within the New Zealand scene. I like his use of colour and pattern within his collections. Many designers in New Zealand are 'safe' with colour and opt for mainly black garments. There is a market in New Zealand for these however the use of colour and pattern could enhance a collection and make it stand out. I admire the work of students graduating from European design schools. The work is edgy, sculptural and sometimes borderline costume. Not in the least conservative. WHAT DO YOU THINK OF NEW ZEALAND DESIGNERS, ARE THERE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THOSE WHO ARE FROM DUNEDIN/WELLY/AUCKLAND? Like I said earlier I think there is room for colour, and varying colour combinations, to be added within collections. New Zealand designers are producing clothes that people love to wear. There is a great deal of talent already in the New Zealand industry but also emerging talent from young designers. Auckland designs seem to be more connected to the international trends but also in some cases seems to be a bit more corporate than the rest of the country. It is hard to categorise though because different designers within New Zealand target different markets ie street ware. Wellington seems to be a bit more one off and create items so that people can be individual. Dunedin designers seem to create the darkest clothing. It is moody and seems to have a grunge feel. WHAT ASPECTS OF DESIGN ARE YOU PASSIONATE? Textiles as this area is what I majored in and have focused on within the fashion field.



After the show Thread spoke to Kim Waddell a graduate from the Diploma in Fashion Design. Waddell was awarded the Brooker Spalding Ltd Award for Excellence. Waddell’s collection A NEW TWIST was based on the Wizard of Oz after a theme of geometry spirals resembling a tornado. Her collection was made up of neatly tailored jackets and vests lined with red chequered gingham. 2009 sees Waddell undertaking further study into the technical side of design as she has a strong interest in pattern making particularly computer based. Her talents lie in the pattern making arena and she is drawn to high end tailoring and sportswear designing, what a combination.New Zealand needs more pattern-makers so we hope to see these talented graduates working for an established label or designer sometime soon. To contact Frances or Kim or to make contact with other graduates email monarchrosell@gmail.comThe Future of Fashion FOYA Collective is a part of Blow.08 which runs from 7-22 November 2008 and includes contributions from the New Zealand School of Music, Toi Whakaari New Zealand Drama School, the New Zealand School of Dance and the School of English and Media Studies. For more information visit http://blow.massey.ac.nz/ or www.massey.ac.nzPhoto – Models wearing the edgy upmarket collection by talented designer Frances HodgsonPhoto – Kim Waddell, graduate of the Diploma in Fashion Design received the Brooker Spalding Ltd Award for Excellence Photos – Models walk in a range of graduate designsPhotographer: Angelina LeeCyndi Greep, 18 November 2008