Massey Uni shows Future of Fashion

FUTURE OF FASHION – FOYA COLLECTIVE 08Massey University Fashion Graduates Show
Innovative designs of New Zealand’s future designers embraced the catwalk recently when the Massey University Fashion Graduates Show was unleashed last week. The Future of Fashion – FOYA Collective 08 was held at Wellington's Massey campus in the expansive Great Hall.Massey named the show FOYA in reference to a recently discovered rainforest in Indonesia reflecting the rich, undiscovered originality of such an untouched place and the tight knit community of the people who live there. Graduates presented their designs to a packed-out audience which included well-known and talented designers Alexander Owen, Liz Mitchell, Robyn Matheson and Emma Wallace. Looking for a new pattern-maker perhaps?The themes that were evident on the runway included dark raw use of fabrics and styles. Fabrics that were evident were the use of silks in ethereal floaty dresses, satin in tights and jackets for men and woman and the use of screen printing and tie dye. Some designers used an eclectic mix of fabrics in their collections with a range from floaty and velvet maxi dresses to edgy punk jeans and tie dyed vests and tops. Interesting shoulder features featured on a range of garments including dresses and jackets – bringing the 80s into a more upmarket and attractive light. Pleats, drapery, tucks, domes and zips were meshed into many of the creations, all very versatile and wearable.Frances Hodgson’s edgy textile designer collection (pictured above) caught our eye on the catwalk. Hodgson completed the Bachelor of Design (Textile Major). Thread spoke to Hodgson on her collection coined “I'd Wear It To The Bone” which won her an embroidery award.IS THIS YOUR FIRST COLLECTION? This is my first fashion collection. I have designed many textile collections throughout my study and have had a consistent style with the aesthetic of my drawings translating onto fabric. The inspiration for these collections has been taken from a wide range of things but is mainly drawn from the natural world. WHAT DO YOU SEE AS YOUR INSPIRATION IN YOUR FASHION DESIGN? I'd Wear It To The Bone was inspired by analogies between the natural world and the human anatomy. I was inspired by old medical illustrations from the renaissance and prior, and particularly the limited knowledge the academics had on the human anatomy and the way it works. People formed connections between the body and the way the natural world works as it helped them create meaning from the world. WHAT IS NEXT ON THE AGENDA FOR YOU? I am pursuing a career within the New Zealand Fashion industry. Ideally I'd like to collaborate with a fashion designer to create a collection using my textile designs. WHO DO YOU LIKE IN TERMS OF NZ AND INTERNATIONAL DESIGNERS and WHY? Adrian Hailwood would be a favourite within the New Zealand scene. I like his use of colour and pattern within his collections. Many designers in New Zealand are 'safe' with colour and opt for mainly black garments. There is a market in New Zealand for these however the use of colour and pattern could enhance a collection and make it stand out. I admire the work of students graduating from European design schools. The work is edgy, sculptural and sometimes borderline costume. Not in the least conservative. WHAT DO YOU THINK OF NEW ZEALAND DESIGNERS, ARE THERE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THOSE WHO ARE FROM DUNEDIN/WELLY/AUCKLAND? Like I said earlier I think there is room for colour, and varying colour combinations, to be added within collections. New Zealand designers are producing clothes that people love to wear. There is a great deal of talent already in the New Zealand industry but also emerging talent from young designers. Auckland designs seem to be more connected to the international trends but also in some cases seems to be a bit more corporate than the rest of the country. It is hard to categorise though because different designers within New Zealand target different markets ie street ware. Wellington seems to be a bit more one off and create items so that people can be individual. Dunedin designers seem to create the darkest clothing. It is moody and seems to have a grunge feel. WHAT ASPECTS OF DESIGN ARE YOU PASSIONATE? Textiles as this area is what I majored in and have focused on within the fashion field.



After the show Thread spoke to Kim Waddell a graduate from the Diploma in Fashion Design. Waddell was awarded the Brooker Spalding Ltd Award for Excellence. Waddell’s collection A NEW TWIST was based on the Wizard of Oz after a theme of geometry spirals resembling a tornado. Her collection was made up of neatly tailored jackets and vests lined with red chequered gingham. 2009 sees Waddell undertaking further study into the technical side of design as she has a strong interest in pattern making particularly computer based. Her talents lie in the pattern making arena and she is drawn to high end tailoring and sportswear designing, what a combination.New Zealand needs more pattern-makers so we hope to see these talented graduates working for an established label or designer sometime soon. To contact Frances or Kim or to make contact with other graduates email monarchrosell@gmail.comThe Future of Fashion FOYA Collective is a part of Blow.08 which runs from 7-22 November 2008 and includes contributions from the New Zealand School of Music, Toi Whakaari New Zealand Drama School, the New Zealand School of Dance and the School of English and Media Studies. For more information visit http://blow.massey.ac.nz/ or www.massey.ac.nzPhoto – Models wearing the edgy upmarket collection by talented designer Frances HodgsonPhoto – Kim Waddell, graduate of the Diploma in Fashion Design received the Brooker Spalding Ltd Award for Excellence Photos – Models walk in a range of graduate designsPhotographer: Angelina LeeCyndi Greep, 18 November 2008

3 friends have an exhibition

Three Wellington artists: Ange Lee, Chris Bramwell and Richard Graham, joined together for their exhibition, “three: Good Things Come In…”, a collaboration between the three friends which opened Tuesday 18 November at ROAR! Gallery. Their art works are diverse but all have a slight introspective feeling.
ROAR! gallery is New Zealand’s first gallery to promote Outsider Art. The gallery promotes work which does not fit into the traditional art category, such as craft, and is supportive of emerging and outside artists and also those not formally trained. The space in ROAR! is a fabulous area to showcase art and the exhibition launch for “three: Good Things Come In…” was styled artfully with plants and retro chairs which added to the ambience.
All three artists have all been focusing on the meditative and more introspective aspects of busy day-to-day lives. In their works they embrace the concept of separateness and being separate yet connected. Their paintings, carvings and photographs explore the idea that all things are simultaneously a whole and a part. They are looking at our world on a symbolic level, the small and the smaller, exploring the idea of things appearing distinct from each other because all exist on a unified field of consciousness.
Ange Lee’s Twilight collection is one of a series of paintings featuring a beautiful blue colour palette which provokes thoughtfulness and harmony. “My work is influenced by a deep interest in Eastern philosophy, quantum mechanics and the expansive and ever-changing view of the Orongorongos and Cook Strait from my window” says Lee.
Rich Graham’s collection, The Atom Smashers, incorporates carving and acrylic on board. Graham says that there is an “underlying geometric abstraction carved into the board – resembling a constructionist style that has been influenced by early modernists such as Mondrian and Ben Nicholson.” Some of the works feature Japanese throwing stars, shuriken, to resemble his new role of fatherhood. He says that “quantum mechanics are a recurring theme in my works representing a harmony of mind, body and spirit that few have achieved.”
Bramwell, photographer, says that she is drawn to patterns incorporating balance and the feeling of bleakness. Themes include home and history but essentially about ‘home’. Fabulous photos of Montréal Canada shot in a bleak moment are a part of her collection. Her photography is of a spontaneous nature.“I just capture moments, and tend to take photos as I feel like it”. Nice.
“three: Good Things Come In…” runs for two weeks at ROAR! Gallery. ROAR! Supports the annual Art Auction coming up 25th November for Pablos. Artists works that will auctioned at this event include works by Dick Frizzell, MISERY and others.
To visit the exhibition or for further information including tickets to the Art Auction contact roargallery@paradise.net.nz or visit the gallery situated on the 1st floor, 55 Abel Smith Street, Wellington.
Cyndi Greep, 19th November 2008
Photo by Ange Wadsworth of artists Chris Bramwell, Richard Graham and Ange Lee.

twenty seven names in French
A little bit Parisian, a little bit rock and roll….Inspired by punk duchess Patti Smith, a movie called Dream of Life and some additional themes of marching bands, marine parade and the French flag, twentysevennames has some fresh ideas based around retro themes.
Talking to Anjali Stewart and Rachel Easting about their delightful but edgy label twentysevennames the designers are currently using a mix of fabrics from t-shirting, cottons, denim and silk. Colours for summer include the French flag colour way – red, white and blue being utilised in bold colour blocks.
I guess we “incorporate vintage tailoring into high end wearable items” said Stewart and “we use basic fabrics to make elaborate garments” remarked Easting, “there’s a little bit of 70s, and a little 30s in the sailor's collars that are coming through in the collections.” Their fourth collection “Jacques Attack!” is both French and marine-themed. Recent collections were dreamed up when the designers rock and rolled it to inspirational Paris to see the New Year in.
When asked what item from their collection that all women need in their wardrobe from the current range both designers agree it has to be the knit denim jeans. “They are very much an extension of tights but are actually jeans”. These little beauties currently retail for $360 and they are an item that will with stand the test of time and can be worn any through the seasons – all year round.
Launched in 2005, twentysevennames is a collaboration between Stewart and Easting who have known each other since they were playgrounders. Stewart, a Design student, and Easting, an Arts student, both graduated from Otago. They have a warehouse in central Wellington and their Winter 09 collection was shown recently at Air New Zealand Fashion Week 2008. I envisage these designers are already moving fast –they’ve already been to Paris and I think their designs are following!

For more information go to www.twentysevennames.co.nz
Photo: twentysevennames designers Anjali Stewart and Rachel Easting

Photographer: Emma Allen

Cyndi Greep 13 November 2008

The costumes of Don Quixote Ballet
Why should you attend a performance of Don Quixote with the Royal New Zealand Ballet? The beautiful costumes for one! Vibrant crimsons, reds, tangerines, and fushia pinks float past giving the audience a Barcelona experience full of fashion and flight.
The production staged and choreographed by Gary Harris and Adrian Burnett stars 2008 Wellingtonian of the Year Sir Jon Trimmer as ‘The Don’ in his 50th year with the Royal New Zealand Ballet. Set in Barcelona, based on Miguel De Cervantes' classic novel, Don Quixote de la Mancha, is one of the great comedic ballets. Don Quixote magically combines vibrant costumes, impeccable talent and mesmerizing characters with traditional classical ballet choreography and music by Ludwig Minkus performed by Wellington Vector Orchestra.
Costumes for the production have been designed by Artistic Director Gary Harris. As Don Quixote is a new production for the RNZB, costumes have been created from inception and have been designed to match themes occurring throughout the production including a secret lover's tryst, a robbery, gypsy encounters and a wedding.
Trying to source a tutu for my fancy dress collection I asked the RNZB about the costumes. Dresses are made of silk-taffetas and poly-taffetas. Some are able to be sourced locally but they are mainly sourced from the UK and Germany due to the range of vibrant colours. A small team of people including Andrew Pfeiffer, RNZB wardrobe supervisor of 20 years create the costumes and depending on the size of the show can take a period of time to complete.
Below: Katie Hurst-Saxton dances with a red fan to match her stunning Spanish dress in Don Quixote.
For Don Quixote, the dresses were worked on for the rehearsal period, approximately 7 to 8 weeks. The tutu bodices were started at the end of the last show, Romeo and Juliet, which finished in August. Dresses were reasonably easy to put together because of the time period where Don Quixote was set. For this production it appeared that it was the colours that made the costumes.
Although the costumes are hardly ever on display to the public there was is a rare opportunity for some to be viewed and purchased during the Royal New Zealand Ballet's Great Costume Auction and Exhibition in June. Additionally there is sometimes a chance to see some costumes up close during the RNZB Day at the Ballet education experiences. If you get the chance to see the production, go, if not for the ballet, for the fashion!
For more information on how to see Don Quixote for yourself, until 11 December 2008, go to http://www.nzballet.org.nz/season/don-quixote-2008
Cyndi Greep, 12 October 2008

Main picture: RNZB artists as gypsies in Don Quixote.

Photos by Maarten Holl